The General Image of the Armenian Merchant Projected Through the Sino-Armenian Socio-cultural Relations and the Case Study of the Revival of Merchant Traditional Costume

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Ani Margaryan

Abstract

Armenian communities have had a notable historical presence in various regions of China since the 16th century, with particularly thriving settlements in Canton, Macao, Shanghai, and Hong Kong. During the 17th and 18th centuries, Armenians in China occupied influential positions, receiving endorsement from Chinese authorities. Their impact on Chinese society and East-West commerce is evidenced through their active promotion and patronage of Chinese-manufactured visual art objects. Notably, Jesuit preachers seeking unrestricted access to the country adopted Armenian attire as a strategic approach to integrate into the local culture. This academic pursuit represents an interdisciplinary effort to reframe the image of Armenian merchants, encompassing two major phases. The initial stage involves a scholarly examination of the collective image of Armenian merchants within the context of Sino-Armenian cultural and artistic exchanges, employing contextual and comparative analysis. The methodological framework integrates historiography, archival studies, ethnography, design, art history, and the history of costumes. The subsequent phase involves a collaborative effort with art historians, designers, and ethnographers to entirely reimagine the Armenian merchant's characteristic attire, headgear, accessories, and attributes. Drawing from primary sources such as merchant costume drawings from the mid-20th century, engravings and prints by European artists, and a rare and well-preserved 17th-century merchant costume ensemble currently housed in the US, this project aims to significantly contribute to Silk Road studies and deepen the understanding of the intricate history of Sino-Armenian commercial and cultural interconnections. Furthermore, it may serve as an inaugural endeavor of the Armenian merchant costume renaissance for important intercontinental and cross-cultural exhibitions and expositions.

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